Sunday 20 November 2011

Frozen out - the abandoned ice factory

An abandoned ice factory sounds cool but I’m sorry to say it’s not. It’s not, because no factory making ice should ever be frozen out, especially if the damned thing is of historical importance, under Denkmalschutz as a protected or listed building. Now they want to destroy it altogether!
The Eisfabrik on Köpenicker Straße had been churning out ice for the inhabitants of this morally-challenged city since 1896 but its chilling activities were halted 99 years later, and it’s been simply chilling since then.
One of the oldest in Germany, it began under the stewardship of Carl Bolle – known affectionately as “Bimmel-Bolle“ (Bell-Bolle) because of the little bells on his dairy trucks – who founded the Norddeutsche Eiswerke (North German Ice-works) in September 1872. He acquired Köpenicker Straße 40-41 in 1893 and began producing ice here three years later.
The Norddeutsche Eiswerke became Germany’s biggest natural ice producers, and Herr Bolle had a larger factory and residential housing built here in 1909/10. More works between 1913 and 1922 saw the building of the boiler house, engine room and three cooling houses, which were insulated with 15cm of cork between the walls.
A great big ice machine from Linde AG was installed in 1914 to make blocks of ice 1.5 metres long. In times without fridges, these were delivered all over Berlin to breweries, pubs, households, fishmongers etc.,apparently until the late 1970s at least.
After “The Emergency” (as we Irish like to trivialise the war) and subsequent partitioning of Germany (which should never to be trivialised), the factory continued in GDR times as the VEB Kühlbetrieb before being heartlessly abandoned by the Berliner Kühlhaus GmbH in 1995. I guess most people had fridges then.
One of the residential buildings had been destroyed by bombs at the end of the war, but the rest somehow survived the various bombs and several fires – until last year that is, when the old cooling houses were ripped down by, and under the “protection” of, the Treuhand Liegenschaftsgesellschaft.
The original Treuhand was the state company responsible for the privatisation of East German enterprises once the Wall came down, generally responsible for the closing of factories, loss of jobs and selling of assets.
The Eisfabrik is now caught in the web of the huge Mediaspree project which wants to allow corporate greed corrupt Berlin’s riversides with apartments, office spaces and gold mines for investors. I guess this is how they can demolish a listed building...
According to those who want to save Berlin’s Eisfabrik and Wikipedia, the cool houses torn down last year were Europe’s oldest. The rest of the factory is also to be destroyed, except for the apartments currently undergoing modernisation (no doubt before the inhabitants are paid to leave so they can be sold at wildly inflated prices). The ice factory will be replaced by a building made of glass. Berlin is going to the dogs. Not cool.

What
Berliner Eisfabrik. Abandoned ice factory, one of Germany’s oldest, which managed to survive two world wars, several fires and countless parties but is about to meet its fate at the hands of developers to make way for luxury apartments despite being a protected building. There's a nice view of the river and my beloved Fernsehturm from the roof, and it’s also home to some fine street art.

Where
Köpenicker Straße 40/41, 10179 Berlin, Germany.

How to get there
It’s very central so shouldn’t be a problem. Berlin Ostbahnhof is a two minute walk away. Here’s a map to make it even easier.

Getting in
Not as difficult as I thought it would be. Apparently there used to be security but they don’t seem to bother anymore, probably since they destroyed the cool houses. Simply stroll in past the offices to the left of the factory, ignoring any busybodies on the way, past the loose fence at the back and you’re in!

When to go
As soon as you can. Winter’s coming, light’s failing, and this baby’s days are numbered. It’s already too late to see the cool houses, but the rest should be savoured before it’s replaced by some overpaid architect’s hideous creation.

Difficulty rating
2/10. Central, easy to get in – not difficult at all.

Who to bring
All your friends. Have a party! Or your boyfriend/girlfriend/hermaphrodite-friend for the view from the roof.

What to bring
Camera, torch, beer, warm clothes if you’re planning on visiting anytime soon.

Dangers
No obvious ones beyond the usual that come with wandrin’ around a deserted, decaying, crumbling building. Best not to be too averse to the smell of piss. There was some lunatic at the site shouting loudly when we were there but he may have been just a passer-through. Street artists are generally friendly as long as you’re not the Polizei.

27 comments:

  1. Did I misread, that this was under DDR purview? How is that, exactly, when it's in Kreuzberg, on the south side of the Spree, and therefore within former West Berlin? Unless I don't know my Berlin geography as well as I think. Please clarify. Cool building (no pun intended. ok, sorta).

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  2. It is just me or does that Tiger in the stylish cap have laser eyes?! Perhaps this is why the building must be demolished - to forever bury the secret of the DDR's feline optical laser ray technology.

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  3. Thanks for the post. Saw this when I visited Berlin about two years ago, but didn't know what it was, which leads to another question. On the other side of Koepenicker Strasse from the Eisfabrik there were a couple derelict buildings with a commune of people living in them (& various campers, cars & vans parked around the compound). Power seemed to be supplied from extension cords spliced from other buildings. Do you know what the story of that place is?

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  4. Well observed Bill! Turns out this part of Kreuzberg was under GDR jurisdiction. The Berlin Wall went up all along the Spree from the east (on the north side where the East Side Gallery is now despite the all the river being considered East German territory to the other side), then over the bridge leading onto what is today Engeldamm and Bethaniendamm (which used to be the Landwehrkanal) and on down to Michaelkirchplatz. There was a border crossing at Henrich-Heine-Straße. Checkpoint Charlie's also in Kreuzberg.

    The Landwehrkanal was the canal from where Herr Bolle first landed his ice. I should have included that in the main piece.

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  5. That was where Maria am Ostbahnhof was once found, before she was banished to make way for a hotel or some other shit after Berlin sold its soul to the devil. I'm surprised it still had a soul to sell. Mediaspree is taking over! More I cannot tell you for now, but it might be worth a visit.

    Yes, that tiger is pretty intense. Laser aye.

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  6. awesome :) went here in 2007 and apart from the weed farm on the roof the other buildings weren't all that!

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  7. Very interesting! Didn't know the GDR had any rights south of the Spree. Learn something new every day.

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  8. Juhu!!!!!
    Finally something new!
    GREAT!

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  9. I wouldn't say that it is without any dangers. The police comes very often, to bring people down and get them off the area, but this shouldnt be any problem as long as you're not jumping on the roof and attract all the attention of the surrounding buildings.

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  10. Actually, it's not in Kreuzberg, but in Mitte: that's why it was part of the GDR. The border with Kreuzberg (aka. Mauerweg) is very close though.

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  11. Thanks for the Hinweis! It is indeed in Mitte, but only just...

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  12. Hello,

    I'm not sure how to reach you, Irish Berliner, but I'm gonna try it this way. I'm a dutch journalism student from Holland and in January (8 - 12 january) I'm coming to Berlin to make a radioshow about the city. For the show we're doing all sorts of topics. I found your blog and I'm truly impressed. For the radioshow it would be so cool if I could go with you with my recorder and make a report about the adventure of discovering abandoned places in Berlin.

    I hope you'll read this message and get in contact. Maybe you can e-mail me at merelhurkmans@gmail.com

    Regards, Merel

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  13. hey there
    just went yesterday to Eisfabrik - it is indeed an interesting place to check out. one remark about entering the site: the easiest way is to go through the back of the building along the Spree; the fence can be easily jumped there

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  14. thanks man! really cool blog; i've definitely taken advantage of your advice!

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  15. You're very welcome. Glad to have been of service!

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  16. Just went there today...still intact and no issues getting in. We hopped the fence, but actually there is an easier way, if you go in through the Ararat automobile lot on Kopenicker Str. and walk through the courtyards and past the offices, there is a gap in the fence. Happy exploring!

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  17. Yes, I think we've established by now that the easiest way in is through the back.

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  18. I absolutely adore your blog. PLEASE UPDATE :)

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  19. me and a friend checked it out a couple days ago. its still there and very easy to get in to. when we went there were actually 4 other groups of people. two of them were just relaxing and drinking and the others were spray painting the walls. its a cool place to check out.

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  20. We went there yesterday at night. There were quite a lot of people on the roof.
    Just confirming what you wrote: the place is fraught with piss and dejection. If you go at night, be careful where you put your feet in, it's quite repelling :S.
    Thanks again for your blog, we love it!
    Y&L

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  21. saw the factory over the weekend, was great craic! funnily enough, there was a weird shouting guy there when we were there too, same guy?... perhaps....cant wait to get back to berlin! saw it at night too which was cool (sorry), finally worked up the courage to go down the steps into complete blackness, got properly spooked! ha

    regards, from a fellow irishman!

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  22. Please please please update this blog !! Great work :)

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  23. Occupied by punks now, they even locked most of the doors with chains and locks, totally run down by them. Would not recommend anymore.

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    1. Isn't everywhere occupied by punks? This is Berlin. Punks are fine. It's the gobshites you need to look out for. There were plenty of doors locked with chains etc. when I was there, when there was no sign of any punks. Perhaps they moved in afterward, but I doubt they were the ones to barricade all the doors.

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  24. I was here a few days ago and it was ridiculously easy to get in. There were no afore-mentioned punks, just a bunch of Spanish-speaking people who (I assume) live there. They generally didn't seem to be bothered by the presence of my friends and I, so we could explore the whole place. Once we reached the roof, we realized how popular the place was, because one after the other, small groups of people (mostly young - there was a group of 50-60 year olds) would come just to sit and drink beer with friends. Overall, it was a good experience and the graffiti really makes the place come alive, adding to the general atmosphere. I would still recommend this place.

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    Replies
    1. Glad to hear you had an enjoyable experience. Sounds like it's become the perfect place to while away a Berlin summer evening...

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  25. This blog is really great. The information here will surely be of some help to me. Thanks!. SubZero, Viking Ice Maker Repair Montecito

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